Index:
A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | R | S | T | V | 0-9

A

Anti pilling:
- finishing used on fabrics to avoid the tendency of the fibres coming off of the surface of the material. The fabric is usually treated with film-binding substances, which cause a rougher fibre surface reducing the gliding ability of the fibre or by spraying the fabric with a superficially working solvent to bend the fibre ends.

Appliqué:
- is a technique in which pieces of fabric are sewn onto a foundation piece of fabric to create designs.

AZO:
- dye stuffs referring to a chemical compound which contains two nitrogen atoms with a double bond between them. (-N=N-) as the chromophore. It is the most important group of the synthetically manufactured organic colouring materials (approx. 50%). AZO dyes are found in many of the synthetic dye classes. It is a result of a subsequent treatment of the fibre with a diazonuim salt, naphthol, phenol and amines. They are used in both dye and print procedures providing a variety of colours and wide spectrum of applications. Some AZO-dyes are used in food and cosmetic. They are easy to produce. Although some elements as benzidine and dichlorbenzidine are cancerous, the most colour manufacturers have not used them for over 20 years. (Certificate of Öko-Tex-Standard)

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B

Baby Rib:
- it is a double-knit fabric in which the vertical rows of stitches intermesh alternately on the face and the back. Rib fabrics of this type are durable and have a good elasticity, therefore it is usually used for baby wear.

Basket weave:
- a variation of the plain weave in which paired or multiple yarns are used in the alternating pattern. The yarns are laid side by side without being twisted together. This makes the basket weave looser, less stable, often less durable than ordinary plain waves. Example: Hopsacking.
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C

Canvas
- strong, coarse cloth of cotton, flax, hemp, or other fibres, early used as sailcloth. Left in its natural colour, bleached, or dyed, it has a wide variety of uses, as for game, duffel, sport, mail, and nose bags, tennis shoes, covers, tents, and awnings. Waterproofed with tar, paint, or the like, it is called tarpaulin and used to protect boats, hatches, and machinery. Duck is a fine light quality used for summer clothing, awnings, and sails. It is a compact, firm, heavy, plain weave fabric with a weight of 6 to 50 ounces per square yard. Plied yarn duck has plied yarn in both warp and filling. Flat duck has a warp of two single yarns woven as one and a filling of either single or plied yarn.

Carded yarn:
- is a cotton yarn that has been carded but not combed. Carded yarns contain a wider range of fibre lengths and, as a result, are not as uniform or as strong as combed yarns. They are considerably cheaper and are used in medium and course counts.

Cotton:
- (Polo shirt, T-shirt, sweats) a unicellular, soft, natural fibre composed of almost pure cellulose, that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to the tropical and subtropical regions, known since more than 5000 years. The plant grows to 3m high and needs to be plant after each season except in India. Only 3 species are economically important: Gossypium herbaceum, not valuable from China, India and Pakistan. Gossypium hirsutum, more important, grows in the USA and the GUS countries, Turkey, Pakistan and Brazil. Gossypium barbadense from the USA, South America, Egypt, Sudan and the GUS countries, this plant has long fibres up to 50 mm. Successful cultivation of cotton requires a long growing season, plenty of sunshine and water during the period of growth, and dry weather for harvest. These conditions are not found in all regions, therefore some regions water the plants, which can lead to salted soils requiring again the use of chemicals.

Cotton, brushed:
a finishing process in which rotating brushes raise a nap on knit or woven fabrics. Brushing is used on sweaters, scarves, knit underwear, wool broad cloths, etc.

Cotton, circular knitted:
it is a form of knitting that creates a seamless tube. Double bed machines can be set up to knit on the front bed in one direction then the back bed on the return, creating a knitted tube. Circular needle can also be used to do circular knitting. The circular needle looks like two short knitting needles connected by a cable between them. It is specially used for T-shirts to avoid the side seams.

Cotton, heavyweight:
fabrics with a weight per unit area higher than 260 g/m² are called heavyweight fabric. This kind of fabric is used for outdoor wear and for construction workers. Cotton treated with enzymes: enzymes are proteins that speed up chemical reactions. There are different results by applying enzymes while weaving the fabric. Some enzymes are used to produce variations on cotton fibres for example the stonewash effect. Other enzymes are used to partially reduce colorants creating new colour effects. Cretonne: Medium weight unglazed fabric, usually cotton, made in a variety of weaves and finishes. Generally printed with bright floral patterns. Used for curtains.
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D

Denim
- Strong, twill weave fabric traditionally made with coloured warp (usually blue) and white filler. The name is often given to brushed (knit and plain) cloths which resemble it. Work clothes, jeans, jackets, skirts, soft furnishings.

Detergents:
it is used for special fibres and delicate textiles. They should be washed by temperatures not higher then 30-40 °C degrees. These detergents do not contain any oxidants for bleaching.

Dyeing:
a process of colouring fibres, yarn or fabrics with either natural or synthetic dyes. There are many different dyeing processes. Depending on the amount of articles the method used for a large number is the dye bath. Dyeing, fibre (stock): natural fibres are dyed before spinning into yarn.

Dyeing, solution (dope):
synthetic fibres are dyed in the liquid form before extrusion into filaments.

Dyeing, yarn (skein):
spools or skeins of yarn are immersed in a dye bath, permitting dye to penetrate to the core of the yarn. Permits the use of different colours to create a design such as a plaid or check.

Dri-release:
uses a patented blend of natural and synthetic fibers. It is a unique fabric that feels like cotton and keeps wearers comfortable and dry. The natural fibers absorb moisture pulling it off the skin and into the fabric. Synthetic fibers repel moisture, forcing it through to the surface of the garment where it evaporates quickly as airflow moves across the fabric. The material dries 4 times faster than 100% cotton; it is soft, non-fading and pill-resistant.
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F

Fleece:
- It is a soft synthetic fabric made from polyester. Since its introduction, it has been used to make items such as shirts, hats, cushions, rugs, curtains and a variety of other clothing and household items. Most polyester are washable in warm water by hand or machine. Use fabric softener to reduce static electricity. The fabric is strong and has a low absorbency. It holds in body heat.

Fresh guard:
is a registered trademark of Optimer Performance Fibers. It is an odor neutralizer embedded in all Dri-release fabrics. It eliminates odors in garments by blocking odor-causing sebaceours body oils from attaching to the fabric - also stopping the attraction of odor-causing bacteria. It is freandly to the environment. Fresh guard does not wash out; it remains for more than 50 washings.
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G

Glen check:
- woollen or worsted yarn woven in a twill pattern of broken checks. Glen check patterns usually consists of checks, small regular patterns of squares woven or knitted into, or printed on, a fabric, in varying colours with overlines or overchecks of other colours. Glen checks and glen plains are the same. The glen check pattern is traditionally used for shirts and suits..

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I

Interlock
- a fine gauge knit formerly used only for underwear but now used for outer garments. Plain colours. To produce an interlock knit, long and short needles are arranged alternately in both the dial and cylinder; the needles in the dial and cylinder are also positioned in direct alignment. When the long and short needles knit in alternate feeds in both needle housings, a fabric with a type of cross 1x1 rib effect is produced. The interlock knit is used in underwear and T-shirts of high quality.

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J

Jersey
- a single construction in which all loops are pulled to the back of the fabric. The face is smooth, and it exhibits lengthwise vertical rows (wales); on the reverse side, there are horizontal rows of half-circles, characteristic of the purl stitch. Plain knits stretch more in width than in length. It is most used in lady ware because of its softness.

Jute:
- a natural fiber from the jute plant used for making burlap, sacking, twine rug backing, trimmings and belts. It is also popular for macramé - knotted thread work.

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K

Knit fabrics:
- are made up of a series of interlocking loops that result in a flexible construction. While all knits have stretch, they vary considerably in the amount and direction of stretch. Factors that influence stretch are the yarn and the particular knit structure employed. Knit fabrics may be tubular or flat. Knit fabrics have a great elasticity both lengthwise and crosswise, resist wrinkling, high porosity and breathable.

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L

Linen:
- it is a natural fibre. One of the world's oldest fabrics, made from fibres from the stalks of the flax plant. Now it is generally combined with artificial fibres to improve crease resistance and washability. Linen fibres are much stronger and more lustrous that cotton; they yield cool, smooth, absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily. Fabrics with linen-like texture and coolness but with good wrinkle resistance can be produced from manufactured fibres and blends. It is available in various strengths of weave. Bleached or natural (ecru) linen is a popular base for embroidery. Linen is very comfortable during the summer.

Lycra
- is the registered name for spandex or elastane of the DuPont company. It is a synthetic fibre known for its exceptional elasticity. For more information see spandex.

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M

Mercerization:
- (cottons and linens) a treatment of cotton yarn or fabric to increase its lustre and affinity for dyes. The material is immersed under tension in a cold sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution in warp or skein form or in the piece, and is later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fibre and thus increases its lustre.

Microfibre:
- a high tech fibre made of polyester. It is a fiber with stands less than one denier. Fabrics made with microfibres are exceptionally soft and hold their shape well. They are also used for some cleaning applications, because of their exceptional ability to absorb oils. Microfibre performance apparel has become a very popular alternative to cotton apparel for athletic wear, such as a cycling jersey, because the microfibre material wicks (capillary action to keep) moisture away from the body, keeping the athlete cool and dry.

Micro fleece:
- fleece knitted of very fine denier fibers. It is normally a lighter weight fabric with a soft and silky hand. The fabric has additionally the following properties: breathable, water repellent and windproof.
The fabric absorbs moisture pulling it off the skin. This way the skin remains warm and dry. Micro fleece is widely used in garment for the cold season and underwear.

Moleskin:
- thick, heavy cotton fabric, napped and shorn to produce a suede like finish. Tends to shrink, but is very hard-wearing. Pants, work clothing.
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N

Napped fabrics:
- a finishing process in which the fabric surface is brushed to raise the fiber ends (yarn must be spun) by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points. The resulting texture is compact, soft and warm. Fleece and flannel are examples of napped fabrics.

Nylon:
- synthetic thermoplastic material characterized by strength, elasticity, resistance to abrasion and chemicals, low moisture absorbency, and capacity to be permanently set by heat. After 10 years of research E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Company introduced nylon in 1938 as monofilaments for bristles and in 1940 as multifilament yarn for hosiery. Nylon is now manufactured also in the form of sheets, coatings, and moulded plastics and used in a variety of products, including fabrics, surgical sutures, thread, insulating wire coverings, mosquito netting and screening, gears and bearings, rope, and tire cords. There are a variety of nylons, all being polyamides frequently made from diamines and dicarboxylic acids. The most generally useful of these is nylon, made from hexamethylene amine and adipic acid. Pure nylon fabrics are durable but non-absorbent, which sometimes makes them uncomfortable to wear, especially in warm weather. Nylon is often blended with other fibres such as cotton, wool, rayon, and acetate to make fabrics with greater absorbency. The durability of other fibres can be increased by blending them with nylon.
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O

Oeko-Tex Standard:
- the Oeko-Tex Standard comprehensively addresses the human ecology component of textile products. It evaluates and screens for any harmful substances present within processed textiles intended to come into contact with consumers. Approved Textiles will receive an Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certificate.

Organic cotton
Organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment. Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers, and build biologically diverse agriculture. Third-party certification organizations verify that organic producers use only methods and materials allowed in organic production.

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P

Panama:
lightweight, usually wool worsted fabric of basket weave (see Basket weave), popular for summer suiting before it was largely replaced by artificial fibre fabrics.

Piqué:
cotton or cotton blend fabric woven with small, raised, geometrically shaped patterns on a loom with a dobby attachment. Plain or printed. Sportswear

Pilot:
a woollen cloth generally made in navy blue and used for seamen' coats. It is usually a heavily milled 2/2 twill with a raised, brushed finish.

Plain weave:
the simplest of the weave constructions, in which each filling yarn goes alternately over and under each warp yarn. Sturdiness varies with strength of the yarns and compactness of the weave structure. Plain weave is the basis for most prints. Examples. Muslins, voile, challis percale.

Polyester:
man-made fibre. Synthetic fibre, produced by the polymerization of the product formed when an alcohol and organic acid react. The outstanding characteristic of polyesters is their ability to resist wrinkling and to spring back into shape when creased. In addition, polyesters have good dimensional stability, wash and dry easily and quickly, and have excellent wash-and-wear or minimum care characteristics; one of their principal uses is in apparel fabrics of this kind. Microfibre, which was introduced in 1986, is a variety of polyester that has extremely thin filaments (half as thick as silk fibres). There is a wide variety of fabrics in many weights and constructions. Used for dresses, suits, sportswear, lingerie, linings, curtains, thread, filling of cushions etc.

Poplin:
tightly woven, hard-wearing fabric with a fine horizontal rib, usually of cotton but also cotton/artificial fibre blends, or made from silk. Used for summer dresses, children clothing, etc.
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R

Reactive dye - a dye which attaches to the fibre by forming a covalent bond; also called fibre reactive dye Reactive dyes are known for their bright colours and very good to excellent light fastness and wash fastness, though poor resistance to chlorine bleach. Reactive dyes may be more expensive than other dye families suitable for the same fibres, especially when very dark or dull colours are considered. Within a family, the range of colours available as "pure" dyes (as opposed to mixtures) is typically quite small - a dozen or fewer. Against this, reactive dyes of the same family can generally be mixed to produce a very wide range of colours, while retaining good application characteristics and brightness. The reactivity among families varies widely, so some are easily applied at room temperature, some at boiling temperature and others at intermediate temperature. All types are suitable for exhaust dyeing, and many types are suitable for pad-batch (see padding) dyeing and for printing.

Rib knit:
- a single construction with rows of plain and purl knit arranged so that the face and the reverse sides are identical. The stretch is greater in width than in length. Rib knits have expansive stretch and strong recovery in the crosswise direction, which makes them especially suitable for tight fitted t-shirts, cuffs and waistbands. Most frequently is the 1x1 rib, rows of 1 knit and 1 purl stitch. The 2x2 rib has rows of 2 knit and 2 purl stitches.

Ring spun cotton yarn:
the process consists of several steps that are basically the same for all fibres, with a few variations for fibre type and desired end product. Natural staples are first cleaned and sorted into bunches of parallel fibres, deleting shorter staples. Sometimes the fibres are put through a second, more precise sorting called combing. In combing, the longest fibres are separated out and laid in parallel bunches; these then become the combed cotton or worsted wool yarns that are the basis of high quality fabrics. The final spinning steps are drawing (pulling fibres lengthwise over each other) and spinning (twisting them together). The amount of twist affects the fabric appearance and durability.
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S

Sateen: is a cotton fabric made in a satin weave with a satin-like finish, often found in bed sheets. The satin weave fabric has a characteristic smooth, lustrous surface, therefore it is called satin. It has a considerably greater number of yarns in the set of threats, either warp or filling (weft), that forms the face than in the other set. The sateen has a tendency to slip at the seams.

Single jersey:
it is one of the favourite fabric qualities since its fabrication. It is a fine, soft, slightly elastic single knit made from wool, cotton or silk. Highly run resistant. The material is ideal for shirts, lingerie, sport and children wear.

Spandex:
(Dorlastan, Lycra) a manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of at leas 85% of a segmented polyurethane. It is a flexible, lightweight fabric, often used with another fibre. It is strong, non-absorbent, has a great elasticity. Spandex is use for swimwear, ski pants and stretch clothes (pants, skirts, underwear, and blouses).

Scotchlite:
- is a material made by the 3M Company that is made of millions of glass beads affixed to the surface. Each glass bead is covered with a metallic reflective layer on half of its surface and this gives their reflective properties. The use of Scotchlite on garments will increase the safety of its user; since the reflex material can be seen by distances of 160 m. Scotchlite can be used as emblems or narrow stripes.

Soft shell:
- it is a 3 layer bonded fabric. The outer layer is a woven fabric made of 93% polyester and 7% spandex. The mid layer is a TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) breathable membrane and the inner layer consists on a micro fleece material. It is a soft high stretch fabric very comfortable to wear, totally windproof, maximum body heat retention, breathable and water resistant. Ideal for the cold season and sport activities.
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T

Teflon:
- Trademark of Dupont. The name refers to its material polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE. Properties: stain resistant, water repellent finish applied to textiles. This treatment gives the fabric a protective coating without affecting any of the fabric's inherent properties. Frequently used in outdoor garments.

Terry cloth / towelling:
cotton cloth with loop pile on one side, noted for its ability to absorb moisture. Terry towelling has the uncut loop pile on both sides. A jacquard can create a patterned raised pile. Reverse colour patterns are also possible. Used mainly as towels but also for clothing such as beach robes. Stretch towelling is available and used for such things as car seat covers and babies' crawling suits.

Tencel
A cellulose which is won by eucalyptuses. A silky and still durably natural fibre.

Twill:
is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. A basic structure in which weft yarn passes over at least two, but not more than four, wrap yarns. On each successive line, the weft moves one step to the right or left, forming a diagonal ridge; the steeper the ridge, the stronger the fabric. As a rule, twills are more durable than plain weaves. Examples of twill fabric are chino, gabardine, tweed and serge.
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V

Viscose rayon:
- eine Chemiefaser mit weichem Griff, nimmt Feuchtigkeit sehr gut auf.sometimes simply called viscose. Fabrics produced from the first artificial fibre. It is inexpensive, soft, comfortable (having good moisture absorbency) and dyes well.